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Loi Grathong
Just as there are many holidays that are celebrated exclusively in America, there are holidays that Thailand goes all out for. Some of that is tradition, some of that is their culture, and some of it is to attract tourists. Whatever the reason, we get to enjoy a few more holidays throughout the year. Now, we are not worshiping the River Goddess like the Thai people, but we can still enjoy the fun and games surrounding these holidays.
There are mainly two holidays that foreigners take part in here in Chiang Mai. Songkran, which is the world’s largest water festival (when Chiang Mai becomes the Water Fight Capital of the World), and Loi Grathong (one of the world’s largest Lantern Festivals). It isn’t considered the biggest lantern festival in the world, mainly because China far surpasses the population in Thailand, and some of the countries like Japan and South Korea get a little more tourism than Northern Thailand, but this festival is huge.
Chiang Mai was the capital of the Loi Grathong holiday, but the advance of modern technology and airplanes slowly hindered them until the government had to limit the flying of lanterns to only a few places. Every year, the airports have to cancel literally hundreds of flights because of the danger of lanterns getting caught in plane engines. As far as I know, it hasn’t happened yet but it is a reasonable concern. So, the new “capital” of Loi Grathong is Doi Saket: the small town that our family has been calling home for the last year. It is super cool that we get to live in the capitals of two large and fun holidays. Where we come from in Nebraska, our town is the Haydays capital (which is a holiday we made up). The neighboring town of O’Neill is the St. Patrick’s capital and another neighboring town, Stuart, appointed itself in-charge of the 4th of July. These “local holidays” are cool and I always enjoyed them, but they are not nearly as big as the holidays here in Thailand!
I was fortunate this year to have my golden birthday on ลอยกระทง (Loi Grathong). For my birthday, we went downtown to my favorite breakfast place in Chiang Mai, Butter is Better, and had a nice big breakfast. Then we picked up an ice-cream cake from Dairy Queen (a birthday tradition we have started here in Thailand) and went back home to open presents. My gifts mostly comprised of sodas and candy (what I asked for). That evening there was a Chiang Mai Youth Campfire Cookout. The Cookout was a gathering of all the youth groups in Chiang Mai. We got together for hot-dogs and s’mores, a small worship service, and in- the-dark games. This year, the main game was Capture the Flag. It was fun, but I intentionally kept the fact it was my birthday a secret. As you can see below….
I love it when people sing happy birthday to me. There was no way I was going to have literally hundreds of kids singing Happy Birthday to me. No way. I specifically told Selah and Jeremiah that if they said anything about it being my birthday to anyone, I would be personally responsible for their sudden, unexpected death.
Anyway, after the cookout our parents picked us up and took us to that lake where they were setting off all the floating lanterns. They had bought some and we sent them off ourselves.
This was super cool! It felt like we were signaling for Rapunzel to come home. Apparently, Rapunzel and I share a birthday. There were lanterns everywhere. The one thing that almost ruined it was how crazy it was. Now, I am an introvert who likes peace and quiet. Some of the people at the lake, though, were crazy, insane, maybe drunk, pyromaniacs. People were constantly shooting off fireworks, and some wayward lanterns got very close to other people. There was even some guy meant to send fireworks blazing into the air from the shore of the lake next to us. He didn’t aim right however and shot a firework straight into the ground next to us! Fiery clumps of dirt flew everywhere including my hair, though it didn’t light my hair ablaze. There was even a friend of mine there who came up behind me, lit a small bomb in front of my face and threw it at the ground near my feet where it sparked and fizzed madly. I did not like it. Not one bit. I am not scared of fire, but more people die from fireworks than sharks, so there is reason to be aware.
Why do they send of flying lanterns? Well, traditionally, they use them to send prayers and wishes to the spirits. It is also supposed to bring good luck. Nowadays, it seems to me they are mostly used to pull in tourists.
Flying lanterns aren’t the only lanterns set off here, though. There are floating lanterns that float in the air called Khom Loi or Khom Fai (Fai means Fire). Then, there are floating lanterns that float in water.
These things are cool. Our Thai teacher taught us how to make them last year. But, this year she is opening a new school near her brother’s Thai school so they held a Loi Grathong event together at the Pantip Plaza. Khruu Em (our teacher) has only been teaching out of her house until now so she doesn’t have as many students as her brother who has a school and multiple other teachers working with him. In fact, we might have been the only ones from Eden School.
Anyway, we made our Grathongs. First, they cut the stalks of banana trees into thick circles which becomes our base. Secondly, we use small nails and staples to stick cut banana leaves onto our circles. Then, they taught us how to fold our banana leaves in cool triangular “petals.” There are many different ways to fold the leaves to make different shapes, but they really just focused on the simple ways because it was a whole bunch of Farangs (foreigners).
After we made them however we wanted, we would cover them with bright flowers such as marigolds and orchids. Then we had lunch. Khruu Rutchira made a whole bunch of amazing Thai dishes. She made พัดซีอิ๊ว (Pad See Ew), Pink Noodles (I don’t know what they are called or even how they are pink but it’s really good), ส้มตำ (Som Tam), she also ordered these amazing curry puffs with either peanut curry or chicken curry. She also had a whole bunch of sweet floral teas. For those who don’t know, (most of you), พัดซีอิ๊ว (Pad See Ew) is a Thai dish that is comprised of soy sauce, vegetables, your choice of meat (I think it was chicken), and these large flat rice noodles which look really weird and have an odd texture (but I like it). It is one of Tallulah’s favorite Thai dishes. If you don’t know what ส้มตำ (Som Tam) is, then I know you don’t read all my posts. If you want to know what it is, click here.
Before lunch and the making of Grathongs (floating lanterns), they gave us a little history lesson. The practice of Loi Grathong started in the 14th century. The main religion of Thailand is Buddhism. 90-95% of the population is Buddhist and the rest of population is muslim or smaller less known religions. Christians only make about 1% of the population. Though most of the Christians live in northern parts of Thailand like Chiang Mai, Christians only take up around 16% of the population in the city. The small villages like the one I went to in Doi Chang or Doi Inthanon make up most of the Christian population.
Anyway, while Thailand is a Buddhist country, the Buddhism in Thailand also shows heavy influences from Hindu and other religions like that. One thing the Thai people took from the Hindu religion is the worship of the River Goddess, KhongKha (คงคา), which is their name for the Hindu River Goddess, Ganga.
Now, the rivers in Northern Thailand such as the Ping River that flows through Chiang Mai are disgusting. They are muddy brown and smelly and filled with trash. Thailand’s “solution” to the problem is to make Grathongs. The floating lanterns are beautiful and fragrant, especially if you add the traditional joss stick or incense candles to them. The making of Grathongs is representing repentance and the asking of forgiveness for dirtying up the rivers. The Buddhists take this very seriously, though as Christians we can’t help to wonder why they think vessels full of nails and staples and candles would help clean the water. Whatever.
At first the lanterns were made very simply and carefully, but over time, professionals figured out how to make them real works of art. It is very similar to how Americans make jack-o-lanterns. Some people take them way too seriously and some just accidentally make the most beautiful things without any effort. I am not one of those people. I am terrible at making jack-o-lanterns and Grathongs. However bad I am at making them, they are both still fun to make, though they both make a big mess. Jack-o-lanterns make a mess with their guts and Grathongs make a mess with banana leave scraps.
During Loi Grathong, they also have large parades with huge elaborate floats covered in lights and decorations. Khruu Em showed us pictures and asked if we were going to go and we said probably not but asked if her daughter Marin got a lot of candy. That made her confused. Apparently, it is mainly an American tradition to throw candy off of floats in a Parade! I thought that was just a given of parades but she had never heard of it before. I thought that was interesting.
Loi Grathong was a super cool way to spend my golden birthday and it it was a once in a lifetime experience that we have gotten to experience TWICE. It just shows that doing what God calls us to do can be rewarding. The experiences we have had since coming here are pretty amazing and we are blessed to be able to enjoy these things about Thailand while living here!
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My First Outreach
Many times throughout the year, ZOE has prevention outreaches to many places in Northern Thailand. Every few months or so, a short-term missionary team, usually from America or Australia, comes to Thailand for ZOE. They do several things around ZOE, volunteering anywhere and everywhere they are needed. And then comes the outreach. This is where the short-term team, ZLT Students (Zoe Leadership Training), and the Child Rescue Team, go to the little villages in the mountains and preach the Good News of Jesus and spread awareness about human trafficking. Since my dad is part of the ZCR (ZOE Child Rescue), he goes on nearly every single one. And, when there is enough room, some of the missionaries’ families are allowed to tag along and help where needed. Well, there was extra space and I went on a prevention outreach to Doi Chang (a mountain village, known world wide for its quality coffee). It was a really great opportunity for my first outreach because it was ZOE’s first youth team, 15 or so teenagers from America.
I rode along half the way in Nick and Heather’s (fellow Zoe Missionaries) truck and then we all met at a PTT (gas station) to gather and regroup. We still had about and hour or two ahead of us so we all grabbed snacks at the Seven-Eleven. Something I noticed right away is that teens are much more adventurous than most adults. Especially when it comes to food. They ate fun chip flavors like Ghost Pepper, Hot Chili Squid (my favorite), Garlic Bread, Seaweed, and many more. They would see something they haven’t seen before and just get that. Most people who come to Thailand, unless they are young tourists, are more likely to stay with their safe and reliable Coke and Snickers instead of trying something new. I personally enjoyed this. I have become much more adventurous in my food while living here. As a Nebraska kid, seafood always kinda grossed me out, I couldn’t handle spice, and I was not comfortable eating anything without knowing about everything in it. Now I am sure I have eaten intestine and not known about it. Sometimes at restaurants, I just pick the thing with the funniest-sounding name I can find and eat whatever I get. I love most seafood now, and can handle pretty spicy things. It was kinda refreshing to be around several other people who were just as adventurous.
I rode with some of the teens in one of their vans the rest of the way and compared chip flavors. They, of course, were still jet-lagged and several of them would get car sick so they slept most the way and missed the amazing mountain views. We were driving through rainforest-covered mountains the whole way and we were surrounded by awesome views the whole time. We even stopped at a view-point before getting to the village and took some photos there.
We got to the village and had lunch before heading to the local village church. One thing to understand about all these little villages in Northern Thailand is that, they are not all Thai. There are people from surrounding countries and several other tribes and groups that are too small to be considered their own nations even though they have their own languages and traditions and clothes and cultures. The people we visited were the Akha Hill Tribe. They, obviously, spoke Akha (or Akhanese) which is probably similar to Thai but still another language altogether. This led to a few language barriers between ZOE people and the older people of the village. However, the younger people who went to schools were taught Thai and sometimes English. Several of the ZLT students also speak other languages so we could still get around just fine.
Well, kinda. Language wasn’t the main problem with getting around. I don’t know how these people get around in these villages. They are twisting, winding, skinny roads with no organization whatsoever. And every single turn has steep inclines that feel like 80 degree drops. The two-way roads looked like they couldn’t even fit one car. How it works here is, on the skinny streets, if you are going one way and someone else is coming the opposite way, the person who made the least amount of ground backs-up and lets the other through. How the van drivers got around is beyond me.
Anyway, through a lot of winding and turning, we got to the church and split up into small groups. Each group had a translator or two, ZLT students, STM (short term missionaries, I know the acronyms are confusing), and some volunteers who lived in the village. The teams would spread out throughout the village and just go knock on people’s doors and offer to pray for them and invite them to the church for a worship service. I tagged along with one group where our “village volunteers” were three small girls who knew exactly what they were doing. While leading the way to the different houses, they would run around and just hang on to our arms and take our hands to show us something, as we walked down long, steep roads and went from door to door talking about Jesus and prayed for people and invited them to come to the worship service that night. After that we went back to our gathering place and ate dinner. Then we went back to the church and welcomed people as they came to the service.
There was an outdoor seating area as well as the inner sanctuary of the church. Everyone who came went into the church and so only a few people were outside. Me and Dad stayed outside because we both hate hot stuffy rooms overflowing with people, but also it opened up space for people to be close to the message. Fortunately, they set up a camera inside that was connected to a projector outside so we could watch everything going on inside, such as the worship, dramas, and prayers.
(P.S The Akha people showed some of their culture as well)
After everything, we handed out goodie bags which the STM had helped prepare. We went back to our hotels and slept.
ZOE had reserved rooms at several different motels for the missionaries while the ZLT and ZCR members had these large cabins with multiple mattresses and rooms. Me and my dad stayed at Hotel Charlie which was comprised of several small “duplexes.” Our room had about a two-feet wide walkway, in-between the first bed and the wall. There were two beds with thin hard mattresses and pale pink bedspread. Also, there was a small balcony with an amazing view and a small Thai-Style bathroom. Thai-Style bathrooms are small, tiled rooms with a toilet, sink, shower-head and a drain or two on the floor. There is usually nothing separating these things so you can literally shower while using the sink to brush your teeth. After the shower, almost everything in the bathroom is covered in water so you have to be careful where you put your towel.
Now, as far as I know, no outreaches are the exact same, but they usually have the same layout. The first day is the door to door stuff and the worship service. The next few days though, is going to schools and spreading awareness about human trafficking. So that is what we did the next day. The school in this village was large with a big gymnasium/auditorium. Behind that was a good-sized open-air coffee shop for people to rest and regroup.
Something that ZOE does really well, is how they teach about human trafficking. This is a serious topic. It’s a scary topic. It’s a topic that doesn’t really get discussed around children. What ZOE does is they have people leading the younger kids in crafts and games that teach about trafficking while teaching about Jesus while the older kids are in the auditorium learning about trafficking. The speakers in the auditorium will make sure kids are listening by telling them how many times to clap randomly throughout the speech which is kinda fun and will throw prizes to kids who answer questions correctly. The STM and ZLT also had silent dramas showing the seriousness of trafficking in kind of a fun way but still very serious. It isn’t just fun and games. It’s serious and the speakers will talk for a long time teaching kids how to be safe and telling them how to be aware of what might be going on in their own village.
While all this was going on, I didn’t really have a specific job. Heather’s main job at ZOE is these outreaches and I was basically her assistant. She organized everything and I helped her make sure everything stayed organized. I would go around to all the different stations and tell them when they would need to rotate or come back to the auditorium. I would run and grab things for people and help set up things, just be wherever I was needed.
We had lunch there and had a few more things to do there after lunch, but mostly we just hung-out with kids and with each other. We also got to benefit from the coffee shop and get coffee from there although we had a hot water machine and instant coffee and cocoa drinks whenever we wanted.
After that we got back to our rooms to shower and rest before going back to the gathering place to sing worship songs and eat and play games. One thing I know we all appreciated was the team of cooks who had come with supplies in advance and spent the entire outreach cooking for us while we worked or had fun. The food was the best Thai food I have ever had and we had something different for every meal. They rarely had leftovers because we were all hungry and it was all so good.
The next day was similar to the second one, though it was our last day in Doi Chang. We all packed up in the morning, had breakfast, got in the vans, and headed to another school. How ZOE ever discovered this school, I will never know. It was a rather large school but was completely hidden in the mountainous jungle. We spent over an hour on the worst roads known to man to get there. Skinny and ridiculously bumpy. The craziest thing was that some ZLT members were sitting in the back of the truck the whole way and they even fell asleep while us inside the cap were trying not to hit our heads on the roof of the truck. It was that bumpy. We got to the school and basically did the same thing we did at the other school with fun stations for younger people and older kids in the auditorium.
They did the dramas and the skits and then we had fried chicken and rice that they had cooked for us ahead of time and packaged in individual plastic containers. Then we packed up and headed home.
I totally enjoyed that outreach and have gone on another since then though Selah is talking about that one. It was nice having all those teens to hangout with and talk to though it was kinda crazy and hectic. I am not saying I am the most mature teen in the world but I am the most mature teen that went on that trip. They were a lot of fun but I just wished they would turn the volume down a bit.
I would love to go on many more outreaches. The atmosphere and the people at ZOE is probably the best atmosphere in the world. Our family likes to think of it like there are many cultures, none better or worse than the others, but ZOE culture far surpasses every other one. The people at ZOE are the most kind, most faithful, most fun, and most enthusiastic people in the entire world and our family is blessed to be connected to them like we are!
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Taipei, Taiwan (Part 2)
We did so much in so little time while in Taipei. Maybe because we had nothing else to do, maybe because traveling around was so easy, it was such an action-packed trip, I had to split into two posts. The first post I wrote highlighted the biggest, most memorable activities: Taipei 101 and the Taipei Zoo. (If you haven’t read that yet, go do so.) I am going to quickly talk about four other things we did while in Taiwan. In no particular order, they are:
#1. 228 Peace Memorial Park
This place is very meaningful to the Taiwanese people. It’s a memorial for all the people who fought for independence from Communist China. It was very fertile. There were so many flourishing plants, I forgot I was in the middle of a big city. While the main purpose of the park was to have statues, small temples, and plaques, there was also an outdoor place to work out and a play set.
Right next to the playground was an “acupuncture walk.”
It was a wide stretch of side walk that was covered in smooth black rocks. The idea is that if you walk on these very smooth yet very pokey rocks, then you will get great health benefits. There was a sign saying what part of the foot attributed to what other body part. Walking on it with shoes: easy. Walking on it with socks: quite uncomfortable. Walking on it with bare feet: extreme pain. I went on it probably seven times (I have very tough feet from stepping on bees all the time). Selah posted a video on our youtube channel of my dad trying it.
Also within the park, there were a couple museums.
#2. The Museums
These huge, victorian style buildings had many floors and rooms showing Taiwan’s rich history; more history than you might expect from a tiny little country like Taiwan. All the wars, all their trade, how their flag came to be: and that is only a little bit of it. The first one went to covered all that and even had a huge aviation section.
The second museum had an entire old-fashioned bank vault in it. We got to walk around it and explore the low ceilings and rows and rows of cabinets. There were also lots of stuffed animals and bugs and dinosaurs. This museum was much less “Taiwan” and more “Science and History.”
The third museum was far away and we had very little time. We spent an hour in it. The whole museum was basically a palace. A huge towering building filled with artifacts and such. It was a little boring to us kids so we just played “Which Antique Vase is Uglier?”
Even though it was kinda boring, I am glad we went. The thing that these museums showed me and my family was that culture is different than politics. China and Taiwan have very similar cultures, but they are very different countries.
#3. Shun Chui Tang
Speaking of Taiwan’s history, did you know the first “boba” was invented in Taiwan? The idea and creation of tapioca pearls in milk tea started in a little tea shop called Shun Chui Tang. Only now it isn’t a little tea shop doing experiments anymore. It is a big, fancy restaurant chain.
We went to one of the locations while in Taipei. Now, I do not care for milk tea at all. It tastes like curdled milk. And I do not especially like boba. Tapioca pearls are gross and chewy.
The first time I ever had boba was in China. I did not know that there were pearls in it and I thought they just had big straws over there. I take a big sip and five pearls hit the roof of my mouth and I don’t expect it. But that is not the worst part. You have probably heard that Chinese eat everything. Well they do, and I seriously thought for a long time that there were FISH EYEBALLS IN MY DRINK! Not a good experience.
My family did not have this childhood trauma or the same opinions of the taste, so we went anyhow.
I got a lemon tea. No milk. No boba. Delicious. Everyone else: Milk tea, Milk Tea, Milk Tea, Milk Tea, and more Milk Tea. Then my dad saw a brown sugar milk tea so we “had to get that, too.”
So sweet. Blech!
#4. The Market
Living in Thailand, we are no strangers to crowded market, yet very few compared to this market: so busy, so loud, so good! The street food in Taiwan is the best on the planet. Almost everything we ate was amazing! My favorite thing was probably the deep-fried roti with green onions. These were so greasy and buttery and oniony. We ate some and then went back for seconds, they were so freaking good.
Speaking of green onions, we also got a green onion pizza. It was called pizza, but the “crust” was a lot like a crepe and it was folded like a taco. Green onion roti taco? I have no idea but I know that they are probably eaten in Heaven. While I watched them make it, every single ingredient added looked delicious. The cheese, the sauce, the meat. And then the finishing touch: green onions. But not just a garnish. No, this was a heaping pile of chives. Like falling out the sides with green onions. It was a pile two inches high. Perfect.
We also got a lot of Tangulu. If you haven’t heard of Tangulu, I know you don’t watch tiktok or youtube. Tangulu is conquering those right now. All it is is fruit (usually strawberries or grapes but any fruit will do) and simple syrup. They get the sugar syrup really hot and roll the skewered fruit in it. It quickly cools down and then it is as hard as a rock. When you bite into it you nearly break your teeth and squirt juice all over. The flavor was really good and the strawberries were my favorite, but I did not like how sticky it was and how it coated my teeth with sugar. Still, it was good and definitely Selah’s favorite.
There was so much more. We had good beef. It was expensive, but who cares? My dad stood in a line for a long time to get some stir-fried king mushrooms. They were a little disappointing (way too much sauce), but there was so much good food that we kinda forgot about those.
I didn’t have any of it because I was already full from other stuff, but we also grabbed a Korean Cheese Dog. Same thing as a corn dog, but instead of a sausage inside, there was a cheese stick.
We had a fun trip to Taiwan, despite the VISA problems not being fixed.
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Taipei, Taiwan
It has been a very long smokey season in Chiang Mai and the air is hot and dry and cough-inducing. We had to go somewhere for our VISAs: so why not go to a big city for some fresh air?
Several weeks ago (I haven’t posted in a while!), we went to Taipei to try again applying for our family’s non-immigrant VISAs. That part of the trip was unsuccessful, but almost every other aspect of our weeklong trip was great. Jeremiah is writing a post about one event in Taiwan that threatened to ruin our trip. (Link to Jeremiah’s Post Here). We would walk several blocks to the Thailand Economic Trade Center each morning and give the people behind the desk our paperwork. It would take many hours to process, so we would leave to go enjoy Taiwan before going back to the Thailand Economic Trade Center later that day for our paperwork and let-downs.
Now for some non-gloomy things we did: The first day, we were sitting in the park near the building we had just dropped our paperwork into and then our parents said we had a plan and we walked to the nearest Metro. Although Chiang Mai is a big city, there are no Metro stations, so Taipei was interesting just because of their HUGE underground train system. None of us had been on a Subway train since we were in Hong Kong after adopting Tallulah five years ago. It was nice and well organized and it made traveling around the city easier.
Taipei was very orderly and organized which all of us agreed was a nice change of pace compared to “no-rules do whatever you want Chiang Mai.” There were green paths on the street for people to walk on and a bike lane on the sidewalk. And that was nothing compared to the escalators.
So perfect. So organized. Everyone stood on the right side of the escalator so that those in a hurry could pass on the left.
I digress. As I was saying, we left the park and walked a short distance to the next Metro station. That day we started off our trip with one of the coolest things I’ve ever experienced: Taipei 101. If you haven’t heard of Taipei 101 then you should look it up. It is the world’s 11th tallest building at 1667 feet high! We took the metro station right to Taipei 101 and immediately hopped in an elevator up to the seventh floor. On the seventh floor, we got our tickets and we ushered into a really nice elevator. Much better than the one at our hotel that loved to close on people. When we were traveling up, faster than I thought was mechanically possible, the lights in the elevator dimmed and showed fake constelations on the ceiling. The screen on the wall showed floor numbers changing nearly as fast a stopwatch. Then we hit the 89th floor: The Observation Deck. It was awesome. It was cold and covered in windows that gave us a full 360 view of Taipei.
We saw mountains and skyscrapers and buildings that were made to look cool just for us tourists.
Yes the middle one is an Apple Store shaped like a Laptop Computer.
The next day, we went to Taipei Zoo.
The Zoo had its own Metro station so it was very easy to get there. Wait, no it wasn’t! Before we went to the Zoo, my dad had to go get something from our hotel room and he was going to get on the Metro closest to our hotel and hop on a train and meet us at the next stop. The “little” disaster that happened earlier in the morning had slowed down the trains and only a few passed, so crammed with passengers I was worried someone would suffocate. (Again, Jeremiah is writing about the “little disaster“). Only three trains came through before we found Dad. (The train going the opposite way came at least 10 times!) Dad had decided it would take too long and be too crowded when he saw the trains by his metro so he decided to quickly walk (run) to our Metro station instead. By the time he got there, the “traffic” had sped up and trains were moving normally. We hopped on and went to the Zoo.
The Taipei Zoo is the largest zoo in Asia. It is huge. All of us were exhausted walking around it. It is so big we had to go to it twice to see everything! The second day, though, we went to the North America section and were disgusted by this guy.
It is hard to tell but this is an American Bison. We are used to seeing skinny cows but none compare to this creature. I am sure when, in Genesis, Pharaoh has a dream of seven fat cows being eaten by the sickest, skinny cows, he was seeing this buffalo as one of the “famine cows.”
Anyway, one thing that is cool about Asian Zoos are that they can have more outdoor exhibits because the weather outside is the weather in the animal’s natural habitat. They have the indoor penguins and pandas and that’s about it.
The name above intrigued me so I looked it up and apparently this breed of penguin, the Jackass Penguin, are called Jackass because they sound like donkeys. Weird.
They had every kind of elephant (which I didn’t take any pictures of because there are plenty of elephants in Chiang Mai), every kind of bear,
and a ton of wild spiders everywhere. (It’s really hard to tell, but the first spider is really close to the camera right in the center of the photo!)
Speaking of spiders, they’re a few things that the Taipei Zoo had that, in my opinion, beat almost every other Zoo. Their Insectarium was probably the most filled and informative Insectarium I have ever seen. Their butterfly room had only a few species of Butterfly and I thought that was it but it kept going on and on and on. There were small bugs crawling around the walkways like praying mantis and ants. (The “leaves” on the tree in the 3rd photo are butterflies!)
There were butterflies and wasps and bees flying around. Fun fact we learned at a bee farm, asian bees are not aggressive. Seriously, it is crazy. When we went to the bee farm, I expected us to put on hazmat/beekeeper suits and not to touch any bees but they would just pick up a bee and set in our ungloved hands. Not a single sting.
Anyways, the coolest part of the zoo was definitely the Pangolin Dome.
The whole time we were there, we wanted to see the Pangolins. They are a rare and endangered animal that is kind of a mix between an armadillo and an anteater. They are really cool and really cute. Except the Pangolin Dome had no pangolins! We saw one sleeping in another exhibit but that was it. What a let down!
Even though it was called the Pangolin Dome, it was home to many, many more animals than that. It was, as the name suggests, a big chain dome full of trees and plants. We walked on a windy concrete path and was immediately met by these two HUGE birds just right next to us. (That dark thing in the tree is called a “Great Argus”, and it was as long as a young child!)
The one on the railing, the Great Cussarow, looked like it would lunge at any moment.
Right after we passed those birds, we were met by two or three little Cotton-Topped Tamarins. Now, I don’t really care for monkeys. I think they are ugly, creepy, and grosser than most animals. Same with koalas. But if I had to get a monkey I would definitely want it to be these guys. They were small and brown and orange in color, but their highlighting feature was their mane of pure white hair. They look like the coolest little rockstars ever. Plus, they weren’t shy. My dad set his hand on the railing and one of them just walked over it to impress the other tourists.
Also in the Pangolin Dome was a little “Kingdoms of the Night” exhibit. (If you don’t know what “Kingdoms of the Night” is, go to the Henry Doorly Zoo under the desert dome). They call it The Nocturnal Zone. There was a lemur and a loris and a monkey but that was it. This room was so dark we had to feel along the walls to find our way out into the light. There was also an “Amazon river” with a GIANT FISH and a some stingrays and other creatures of the Amazon.
In addition to the two that met us at the entrance, there were several other beautiful birds flying around. Scarlet Ibis, Blue Macaws, Red-and-Blue Lorikeets, and Bee-eaters were some of the birds you could see.
There were so many animals in this place that we didn’t even see! Their website says there was a two-toed sloth climbing around. We saw some tortoise but there were so many of those, scattered throughout the zoo. There was one building with practically every kind of lizard and turtle and tortoise in the world. Plus, the Iguana Tree. (I just looked it up, and the Pangolin Dome doesn’t have any pangolins but the is whole building is pangolin-shaped!)
There was no aquarium which is probably the only thing that makes Zoo #2 on my “Favorite Zoo’s List.” I know. You may think I am crazy but the Henry Doorly Zoo remains #1. I really loved the Insectarium and the whole Taipei Zoo was basically the Lied Jungle but the lack of an Aquarium and other indoor exhibits like that put it in number two.
It is close also because of this guy….
…who did something legendary! My dad looked at him and said, and I quote, “Wassup buddy?” and the monkey acknowledged him with the coolest “wassup head nod” ever!
A few weeks after we came back, we went to the Night Safari here in Chiang Mai. It was a Homeschool Co-op event and the Night Safari is probably #3 in my “Favorite Zoo’s List.” That is a story for a different post though.
There is so much more that happened in Taiwan so….
….To be continued…..
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An Unplanned Trip to Laos
I don’t believe in luck or in jinxes, but whenever my mom says that we have to take a “short” trip to the Immigration Office, it seems we are actually in for a whole lot more. For example, this last trip was supposed to take “maybe two hours” if we get there early enough to be first in the queue line. I mean, we’ve done this kind of extension before and it was fairly simple. Mom was even hoping we would get home early enough to have a normal day of school. So, we left at 6:30 A.M. and got home at midnight. Here’s how it went: (read in a James Bond British accent, if you have one)
It was an early Thursday morning. The weather, some of the nicest I have seen since the Big Move. We all got into clean, respectable clothes, for this was the standard. We left as the sun was coming up, shining the world in its eerie light. We were some of the very first to arrive, acquiring queue numbers that would set us among the first to travel to the counter. We had some time before the counters would open, so we found the necessary forms and filled out the paperwork needed for this visit. Then, paperwork completed, we sat in the empty plastic chairs, and waited about 45 minutes before the counters opened. By then, there were no empty chairs and people were forced to stand.
After a kind gentleman came out to tell the novices (a category the likes of which we are not in) how to proceed, our queue number was called. My mother, my sisters, and I went to the counter and confidently passed them our passports and paperwork. They were supposed to look at them and verify the validity before handing them back and sending us on to the next set of chairs and row of counters with a new queue number in hand. But our life is not one of ease, for when we spoke to the dear officer behind the counter, he informed us we could only be permitted another 30 days in the fine country of Thailand if we first left the country at the border. So, accepting our ill-timed fate, we left and sat on the steps of the office, waiting for my father and brother to get their situations worked out (fortunately for them, they have VISAs of a different sort). My father then needed to stand in yet another line at yet another window for yet another process. While waiting for him to finish, my mother, siblings, and I went to the nearest 7 ELEVEn (which is, in fact, spelled as such) to get some snacks to satisfy our grumbling stomachs. This was the second time getting our sustenance from a petrol station that day, for we had earlier purchased fruit from a stand at a petrol station for our morning meal.
Our father met us, and from there we all left for another unexpected adventure. We piled in the car and left town to drive through the mountains of Chiangmai. By and by the hours went, though we all knew we still had several more kilometers to go. We stopped at a third petrol station to use the loo and to find our lunch. Fortunately, this was one of the fancier PTTs. Fancier meaning there was the popular KFC in addition to the Five Star Chicken vendor, Dunkin’ Donuts stand, Cafe Amazon, and, of course, 7 ELEVEn. Yet again, we ventured forward, this time making a dreadful mess in the car with a huge bucket of fried chicken in the middle seat.
Fast forward the hours passed. After several devices died and our only entertainment was staring out at the mountains, and we finally got to the border. Memories filled our brains from our previous failed trip to the Laos border (that fateful trip, we ended up turning back empty-handed and flying to Malaysia the next day). When we stepped out of the car, we immediately coughed and gagged for fresh air for the dreaded smoky season had already hit that region quite hard. We walked the short walk to the border from the parking lot and got in line behind the small hoard of backpackers that were there ahead of us. Leaving the father and brother behind, we journeyed to a new country. We each, in turn, handed the men our passports, scanned our fingerprints, and stared awkwardly at the face-surveying camera, before walking to the bus stop.
After a small wait, we climbed into the bus and drove for a singular minute over a wide river before stopping at another structure exactly like the one we had just left: that one in Thailand, this one in Laos. Leaving the bus, we stood in yet another line behind yet another counter. Upon discovering it to be the wrong line, we began again: another line, another counter. After handing over a pile of cash in exchange for Laotian VISAs and entry stamps in our passports (the likes of which would prove we left Thailand for a few minutes) back to the bus stop we headed. We were done standing and waiting, now we could sit and wait. After 30 minutes or so, we could board the next bus headed for Thailand. The scenery was beautiful for we were right by the mountains and they looked right out of a painting, especially with a film of smoke covering everything the naked eye could see. We boarded the bus and ventured back to Thailand.
Everything went rather smoothly after that. We drove another grueling 5 1/2 hours home in the dark, with leftover fried chicken and 7 ELEVEn for our supper. We did have the good fortune to find a 7 ELEVEn with an ice cream cooler, so our day was topped off with Thai quality ice cream for dessert.
We came home at midnight and immediately fell asleep. That was the end of it. Ha! It might never be the end of it. Nevertheless, this adventure is over, and a new one is coming. I can feel it.
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Prik Pao Cheese Chips
Hope you had a good Christmas Break! Since it was Christmas Break, I haven’t made a chip post in a while so I am fixing that today. Today isn’t my first day trying these. The first time I saw these was when we were eating dinner at ZOE with the short-term team that was there last November. They had a table full of Thai treats and our friend Ben pointed these out as his favorite. My dad was impressed with these and got them again. Today, I tried them again in order to write a critique for you. And here we are.
Jeremiah and Tallulah really like these. In fact, as I write this, Jeremiah is waiting for me to give him the rest of the bag. Now, for the flavor: Prik Pao, for those of you who don’t know, is a spicy-sweet relish or paste type sauce that is made with charred chilis, shallots, and garlic mixed with dried shrimp, fish sauce, tamarind paste, palm sugar, and–in keeping with Thai tradition–lots of oil then cooked in more oil. If you don’t know what cheese is: your loss. With these chips, it is very hard to pinpoint an exact flavor, but you can get both the Prik Pao and the Cheese at the same time. The cheese tastes like swiss (which is what the picture shows) and the Prik Pao tastes like every ingredient I have listed. I love the spiciness of the Prik along with the garlic and shallot flavor. I can even get some of the dried shrimp. These chips would be one of my favorites if it weren’t for the cheese flavor which I feel shouldn’t be there. Without the cheese, these chips would for sure be on the podium for favorite Thai chips.
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The Big C
We go to The Gathering Church here in Chiang Mai. The Gathering and several other churches meet at Payap University which happens to be really close to Big C Extra. So almost every Sunday, we go to church and then leave to go to Big C for lunch and shopping for the next week.
The closest thing I can compare Big C to in America is a big Walmart, but it is completely different (like everything else in Thailand). There are several little businesses in Big C, such as, Pizza Hut, Swenson’s, Dairy Queen, Black Canyon Coffee, KFC (which is very popular here for some reason), and even some non-food related businesses, such as phone stores, jewelry stores, clothing stores, Watson’s (like Walgreen’s), and a couple small toy booths. I guess I could have compared Big C to a small mall but Big C itself is like a Walmart with a food court, and I don’t think any malls in America include a Walmart.
When we go to Big C (I am seeing how many times I can write Big C in one post), we always go straight to the food court and get our cards, each with 100 baht. In the food court, there are several booths along the side, almost every one with its own dish that the other places don’t and several individually owned booths in the middle. While my parents often get food from the middle booths, the rest of us have one or two main places or dishes we eat. Tallulah has a favorite place with a really nice lady working there. It has lots of sushi and other Japanese and Korean food, but Tallulah always gets Yakisoba, which is a dish with very thick noodles, vegetables, meat and a sweetish sauce made of soy sauce, ketchup, and other seasonings (according to Google). If you have met Tallulah, you know that she doesn’t really speak many words, but she gets Yakisoba every time so when Tallulah walks up to the booth, the lady smiles and confirms with me that she wants “one Yakisoba.” The answer is always yes. Almost nothing makes Tallulah happier than handing someone her card and bringing food back to our table.
But that’s just Tallulah. I always help her order, which works out because the yakisoba booth is in between the Pad Thai stand and the Khao Mon Gai Thot stand. My favorites.
I may have told you before, but Pad Thai is the national dish of Thailand. It is a saucy rice noodle dish with dried shrimp and always comes with bean sprouts, chives, chili flakes, sugar, and a lime. Usually it is also covered in an omelet. ข้าวไก่ทอด translated is “fried chicken with rice” and it is actually, drumroll please……..fried chicken with rice! Except the rice is cooked in the chicken broth for more flavor and I always cover the dish in a sweet chili sauce.
Jeremiah always gets BonChon chicken which I believe is Korean sweet and spicy chicken and rice. Nothing more to say there, really. Selah loves a good Pad Thai (as long as it has no dried shrimp: she has this thing about not liking to see little eyeballs on the food she’s eating. I know right? Weird.) Dad likes to get ส้มตำ or ข้าวซอย. I have told you about ส้มตำ in an other post, so check out the link. ข้าวซอย is spicy noodle soup usually with a drumstick and some crispy noodles on top, as you can see from the picture below. And mom changes everyday so she doesn’t have a usual. Although, she does like the fresh samosas that one of the middle stands make.
Now, every Sunday we have a 100 baht budget to buy whatever food we want (100 baht is about $3). All the meals above are around 45-70 baht. Unless I decide to change it up, my usual meals are both 50 baht. This means I always have 50 baht left over, which is perfect for my dessert. After we return the cards and get our cash back, I go to the smoothie guy’s booth. I do this every single time we go to Big C so, of course, I have a usual smoothie and the guy knows it. Whenever I walk up there, the man smiles and says, “Lemon-Coconut, no milk,” then I smile and nod and he makes it faster than lightning: check out the video! He has two blenders and a huge cooler full of ice behind him, along with piles of coconuts and other fruits. He also has two clean garbage cans: one full of water and the other for dumping water into. After he is done making a smoothie, he will clean the blender by quickly dipping the blender in the trash can with water, giving it a swish, then dumping the fruit residue water into the other can. That way he can make smoothies without them tasting like the ones he made before and it is super fast. My lime juice (Thai people call both lemons and limes “lemons”) and coconut water smoothie only cost 30 baht and is full to the brim so it always lasts till we get to the car. However, smoothies aren’t the only thing we can have as dessert. And I still have 20 baht left!
There are two mini waffle stands, one on the top floor and the other on the bottom. While I like the ones downstairs better, especially the cashew and and cranberry ones, they are more than double the price of the ones upstairs which has more variety. The ones upstairs are only 10 baht, no matter if you get a plain original, strawberry jelly, or chocolate filled one, while the ones downstairs are all 22 baht with no filled waffles. At both places, after you pick your waffle, they put it back into the waffle iron for a few seconds and then put it in the bag: nice and hot.
Selah’s favorite dessert, over all other Thai desserts, is Roti. There is a Roti stand right next to the smoothie stand and he is great. Roti is a kind of like a crispy crepe with countless different toppings, such as chocolate, sweet and condensed milk, bananas, sweet corn, pandan custard (made from coconut leaves and coconut milk), butter, peanut butter, etc. Roti is hard to make, but the guy at Big C is a pro and kind of a show off. I think Selah has a video of him tossing it till it almost brushes the ceiling and then folding in up on a really hot, oily pan.
There is one other dessert option that we indulge in every trip that I should mention: Ice cream! While there is a Swenson’s (which we never eat at), Dairy Queen is a cheap easy way to fill your hankering for ice cream. A small one scoop cone is only 12 baht. Upgrade it even farther and get a two scoop cone for ฿20 or a huge three scoop for ฿25 baht! Pay a little more and you can have the cone dipped in chocolate! There are also 5 different sizes of blizzard but they are a bit pricier so we only get them on special occasions. Dairy Queens are very common here but they don’t sell meals like they do in America. While some locations may offer hot dogs, the only reason to go there is for the ice cream. We always stop at Dairy Queen on our way out, but often we need to do some shopping first.
Like I said before Big C is like a Walmart. That is because it is. A big store that sells everything from clothes to food to toys to bikes. Usually after we eat we head to the store part of Big C and grab a cart which Tallulah sits in until we get to the produce on the other side of the store ’cause by then she is bored of the cart. Since we usually have Homeschool Co-op on Monday we pick up food for our picnic lunch the next day at Big C. Apples, bread, eggs, little pomelo salad kits, mama noodles (Thai ramen), etc. There are also displays of stinky raw meat like pork is but it also has tons of fish, shrimp, crab, and squid/octopus (very common).
Big C is one of our favorite places to go to eat because all the options. As a bonus, we also get all our groceries at the same time. Definitely one of my favorite places in Thailand.
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Double Whammy
It has been quite a while since I last made a post, and these chips were in our cupboard forever waiting for me to try them, so I thought I would make a double-post today.
Stir Fried Shrimp with Chili and Garlic Flavor
As soon as you open a bag of these Stir-Fried Shrimp and Chili and Garlic Chips, you are blasted with an unappetizing aroma. Selah knew what they smelled like right away. She said, and I quote, “Ew! Those smell like fish food!” She is one hundred percent correct. They smell horrible, but the taste actually isn’t that bad. These are the spiciest chips I have eaten so far, but not too painful to not eat them. Not even close. I immediately get a lot of strong shrimp flavor and a decent amount Thai chili, but I barely taste any garlic.
So not the worst and not the best. 7/10
Boat Noodles Chips (ก๋วยเตียว)
I didn’t know what “boat noodles” were until I read ก๋วยเตียว. The Thai characters are saying Guay Tiaw, which is a clear soup with the pork, chicken, or beef bones, and is seasoned with salt and pepper, garlic, cilantro, and some sugar. The picture on the chip bag makes Guay Tiaw look disgusting because it shows the kind of Guay Tiaw with blood broth. I haven’t tried that kind, and I am not sure I ever will. I have only had ก๋วยเตียว with clear broth and duck meat. Duck meat seems pretty popular in Asia, I saw it a lot in China as a meal option and I see it a lot here in Thailand, too.
I haven’t eaten Guay Tiaw in a while so I didn’t know what to expect when I tried the chip version. They smell like all the other weird flavors of chips. Gross. They aren’t as gross as they smell, but they don’t taste very good either. There is a little spice from the pepper and a brothy taste.
Not the best. Not the worst. We still have seaweed chips keeping the last slot. 6/10
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A Murder in Malaysia
We saw a murder on the street in front of the Royal Thai Consulate in Penang, Malaysia. I wasn’t able to get a good picture but that wasn’t the only crazy thing we saw. We also saw two (or three, we aren’t sure) wild monkeys walking on the telephone lines and eating by the trash cans. We did get some pictures of them:
While we went to Malaysia to apply for a new visa, the best part of the trip was seeing all the wildlife from the window of our hotel. We were on the eighteenth floor of a 29 floor apartment building. We watched the dirty river below us as giant monitor lizards, at least 5 feet long, swam. It made it a little scary to see people working (clearing a fallen tree) and playing in that river with those dinosaurs in the water.
We also watched a Brahminy Kite swoop down and grab dead fish floating on the surface. We watched a couple of bright blue–I mean bright blue–Kingfishers fly from tree to tree. There were small white Egrets walking along the shore. My dad kept seeing Blacknaped Orioles flying below us, but I never saw them. Even though we saw all of these cool tropical birds, my favorites were these small, green and blue parakeets flying all over the trees. They might have been Monk Parakeets (my dad had a pet one growing up and thought they looked the same). Dad has told me about a lot of his pets growing up but he always held Buddy (the parakeet) as his favorite.
I did not expect to see so much wildlife on this quick trip to a big city.
P.S. Did you know a flock of ravens is called a Murder?
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101 Guppies
My dad has many jobs at Zoe International. At the beginning, one of them was designing a water filtration system for fish and frogs (for the kids to eat). One day, when he looked into one of the pools that they were going to put frogs in, he saw a couple dozen guppies in there. To this day we have no idea how they got there. Maybe some eggs were in the water and maybe a bird dropped some in there, but there were a ton of guppies in there. My dad got a small net and a movie popcorn box and filled it with water. Then, he caught about thirty and put them in the bucket.
They were in there for about two weeks before Dad got a fish tank for them.
We put in our living room and my dad filled it with aquatic plants. We wanted an all-natural tank so we selected a few of the fish to stay and dumped the others in the canal behind our house. Since then, the fish have given birth and so have the snails that got in because of the plants. (I am not a very good photographer but if you look closely at these pictures you should see tons of little babies.
We aren’t done yet. We added some algae eaters to the hundreds of creatures in our tank. We added an ugly Suckermouth Catfish named Argus Filch and two pretty Siamese cleaner fish named Bobby and Kreacher. We also added several shrimp but they’re impossibly good at hiding considering that they are bright yellow and blue.
The guppies are not the first pet fish we have had in Thailand. Only a few weeks after we got here we stopped by a fish market and bought a beta fish we named Malfoy. We didn’t want to be late for some baptisms at Zoe that day, so Malfoy swam contentedly in a coffee cup in our car while during the baptisms. When we got home, we put him in a small vase with a floating plant on our kitchen table. Sadly, the beautiful Malfoy died one morning for an unknown reason and the dining room table was empty for a few months. Fortunately, when my dad went to the market for the cleaner fish he also got Bellatrix Lestrange, a small dark blue beta fish who only cost one baht ($0.03 !!!!!!!!!)
Still, while Malfoy was our first indoor pet fish, he wasn’t our first fish in Thailand. Week one we noticed that there were big fish in our canal. We have a big canal that goes through our neighborhood and right behind our house. In it there are giant, bright orange koi fish and numerous other fish we cannot identify. Almost every morning at around 6:30 our neighbor dumps a bunch of fish food off her patio and watches as a mass of wiggling fins goes crazy right under the surface of the water.
P.S. I do not have pictures of the koi fish in the canal because they are very camera shy.
P.P.S. We have had several pet fish in America and we know what we are doing (for the most part).